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The Camino de Santiago: Camino Portugués

Just before the dark broke I left Santiago. It was strange. Everything had been leading to the city but now I was leaving it. I was heading in the opposite direction of the arrows. When I found them. And there was a bit of checking my phone map especially by the motorway. Eventually I got on a trail of blue arrows, though less frequent than the yellow ones. An hour got me out of the city proper but it took […]

The Camino de Santiago: Santiago to Finesterre

Santiago can feel strangely commercialised after being on the road for so long. A plethora of souvenir shops fill the old, narrow streets, hawking everything than can be covered in yellow arrows or shells. Still, I enjoyed a few days of doing very little and wandering the beautiful city, filling time between meals by taking photographs, visiting churches and museums. It was hard to recapture that feeling of finally reaching my destination though I watched others arrive in the large […]

The Camino de Santiago: O Cebreiro to Santiago de Compostela

The albergue in O Cebreiro was freezing that night and, though I had three layers top and bottom, I could not get warm. Unsurprising then when I went out and found the village a pretty winter wonderland in the snow. Again I decided to take the main road, though a little longer, as it would be safer. The day began beautifully with just a little falling snow though this turned into icy needles in my eyes, worsening to a blizzard […]

The Camino de Santiago: León to O Cebreiro

Early on a cold, damp morning I headed off from León. It felt just a little above 0°, it was windy, showering often and coupled with the usual suburban and industrial sprawl that accompanies leaving a city, it was not the most exciting day for walking. My pack was now heavier, due to a restock of tape, freezing gel and an anti-bed bug spray, and after a few days off it’s always harder to get going again. Almost 25km later […]

The Camino de Santiago: Burgos to León

Heading off from Burgos at the unforgivably late hour of 08:30, I was both rested and yet unenthusiastic. My rest had made me lazy. My destination was Hornillos del Camino, about 20km off, the terrain being mostly flat and would be a good test for my foot. As usual heading out from the city was not very picturesque, though passing by the university was interesting, after many kilometres of suburbs, rough tracks and motorway the only point of interest in […]

The Camino de Santiago: Logroño to Burgos

The next stretch out of Logroño, according to the guidebook, was 31km uphill and I decided to split it into two, stopping first at Navarrete, a cute little town and then at Nájera, a historic old town set against a warm red cliff. I was surprised that the inclines weren’t as steep as I had imagined and though rain was forecast both days only after setting off from Navarrete rather late at 8am was there real fog but no rain. […]

The Camino de Santiago: Pamplona to Logroño

Having really enjoyed experiencing Pamplona I decided to rethink my Camino strategy. My tendons, now plural, still were sore, a bit improved but I’ve had enough experience with tendon problems to not want to create a longer lasting situation. And more, I liked seeing where I was, I was finally starting to enjoy the experience rather than concentrating on how far I had to go. With that in mind I decided to break the next stage in two and only […]

The Camino de Santiago – Saint Jean Pied de Porte to Pamplona

It was unmistakably French. The arguments between drivers and cyclists, the cafes and pastries, the political graffiti, and roads named for its long and sometimes less than illustrious colonial history. Yet in some ways it was different. In the early evening, as people filled the streets and outside cafes and bars, the character of Bordeaux seemed as warm as the weather itself, even the bum I refused a smoke wished me “Bon journé”. Recently having come south from Iceland I […]

Waterfalls in Iceland Glymur | Icelandic Waterfalls | Iceland | Highest waterfall

Waterfalls in Iceland: Glymur

“It’s the second-highest.” “No, it’s the highest.” “No, it used to be the highest, then they found another one.” “I refuse to believe you! Prove it!” “There’s no signal.” “Ha! See, I was right!” So went the argument as we enjoyed a break from the most un-Icelandic heat of a summer’s day, sitting in front of Glymur, the second-highest waterfall in Iceland. (The highest is now Morsárjökull if you’re a waterfall nerd.) Regardless, Glymur is pretty awe-inspiring, even if it turns your legs […]

There’s no place like home: County Waterford, Ireland.

There’s no place like home right? The last few weeks have been pretty busy preparing for a long-overdue summer trip home. Aside from catching up with friends and a million errands, I’m most looking forward to spending time with the family of course and driving around the Déise in Co Waterford, revisiting some favourite sites. Copper Coast Drive Waterford’s Copper Coast UNESCO Global Geopark extends along the county’s stunning coastline. Explore its length to uncover cliffs, hidden coves and sea stacks. Pic @irishskies […]

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